The Stuart era was one of the most politically turbulent periods in British history — and jewellery became a quiet but powerful form of rebellion. During the 17th century, rings, lockets and brooches were used not merely for adornment, but as symbols of loyalty, protest and remembrance.
Today, Stuart-era jewellery offers a fascinating glimpse into how personal adornment intersected with power, politics and identity.
Who Were the Stuarts?
The House of Stuart ruled England, Scotland and Ireland from 1603 until 1714, a period marked by civil war, regicide, exile and restoration. Supporters of the deposed monarchy — particularly after the execution of Charles I in 1649 — used jewellery as a discreet means of expressing allegiance.
In a time when public displays of loyalty could be dangerous, jewellery allowed individuals to communicate political belief privately and symbolically.
Jewellery as Political Symbolism
Stuart jewellery was rarely decorative alone. Rings and pendants often featured hidden messages, portraits or initials linked to the Stuart cause.
Common motifs included:
- Miniature portraits of Charles I or Charles II
- Royal cyphers and crowns
- Skulls and memento mori imagery
- Enamelled hearts and hidden compartments
These pieces allowed wearers to demonstrate loyalty without openly defying the ruling powers.
Materials and Design in Stuart Jewellery
Stuart-era jewellery often favoured darker, more restrained aesthetics. Black enamel, gold, rock crystal and paste stones were commonly used, lending pieces a solemn and symbolic character.
Rings from this period were typically modest in size but rich in meaning, sometimes containing hidden inscriptions or hairwork concealed beneath gemstones.
Rings of Mourning and Resistance
Mourning jewellery played a particularly important role during the Stuart period. After the execution of Charles I, many supporters wore mourning rings as both personal grief tokens and political statements.
Skull motifs, funerary inscriptions and dark enamel became visual shorthand for loss — both of a king and of a political cause.
Why Stuart Jewellery Still Resonates
Stuart jewellery speaks to the enduring human desire to express belief, loyalty and identity through personal objects. These pieces were worn close to the body, often hidden from view, carrying meanings known only to the wearer and those they trusted.
For collectors today, Stuart-era rings represent some of the earliest examples of jewellery as coded communication — a quiet rebellion set in gold.
Stuart Jewellery and Antique Rings Today
While surviving Stuart rings are rare, their influence can still be seen in later mourning jewellery and symbolic ring designs.
Antique rings inspired by this period appeal to those drawn to jewellery with depth, narrative and historical resonance — pieces that were never simply decorative.
Explore our collection of antique and vintage rings to discover jewellery shaped by centuries of symbolism and craftsmanship.