Zircon is a naturally occurring gemstone admired for its exceptional brilliance and fire, often rivaling that of diamonds. Not to be confused with synthetic cubic zirconia, natural zircon has been used in jewellery for centuries and is prized for its rainbow of colours. It appears frequently in antique and vintage rings, particularly those from the Georgian through Art Deco periods.
What Is Zircon?
Zircon is a zirconium silicate mineral known for its high refractive index and adamantine lustre, making it one of the most sparkling natural gemstones available. It occurs in a wide range of colours—blue is the most popular today, but antique jewellery may feature yellow, brown, red, green, or colourless zircons. Heat treatments are common to enhance or change a stone’s colour, especially to produce vivid blue zircons.
Gemstone Characteristics
- Hardness: 6–7.5 on the Mohs scale
- Toughness: Fair (brittle and can abrade over time)
- Lustre: Adamantine
- Colour: Blue, brown, yellow, red, green, clear
- Crystal System: Tetragonal
Common Cutting Styles
Zircons are most often cut into round brilliant cuts to showcase their brilliance and fire. In antique jewellery, you’ll also find cushion cuts and old mine styles, particularly in Georgian and Victorian rings. Some zircons display double refraction, giving them a soft, glowing appearance when viewed from different angles.
Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery
Zircon was especially popular in Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian jewellery. Colourless zircon was used as a diamond simulant before modern imitations were introduced, while golden and brown zircons were admired for their warmth. In the Art Deco era, blue zircon saw a resurgence, often set in white metals like platinum or white gold to create crisp, geometric contrast.
Symbolism and Lore
Historically, zircon has been linked to wisdom, honour, and wealth. In the Middle Ages, it was thought to promote restful sleep and ward off evil spirits. Today, zircon is recognised as one of the birthstones for December and continues to be appreciated for its natural sparkle and antique appeal.
Is Zircon Suitable for Daily Wear?
While zircon has moderate hardness, it can be brittle and show wear over time, especially along facet edges. Antique zircon rings should be worn with care and stored separately from harder stones to prevent scratches. Gentle cleaning is recommended—avoid ultrasonic cleaners and extreme heat.