Turquoise is one of the world’s oldest gemstones, admired for its tranquil blue-green colour and rich cultural history. Whether worn as a symbol of protection or simply for its soft, distinctive hue, turquoise has remained a beloved gem throughout centuries. Though more commonly seen in beads and larger jewellery pieces, turquoise also features in antique and vintage rings, especially from the Georgian and Victorian periods.

What Is Turquoise?

Turquoise is a hydrous phosphate of copper and aluminium, prized for its sky blue to green colour and often featuring natural veining or mottling known as matrix. Its colour is largely influenced by its copper content, and stones from different regions show subtle variations in hue. Highly porous by nature, turquoise is sometimes stabilised or waxed to improve durability, though untreated antique stones are especially prized for their natural character.

Gemstone Characteristics

• Hardness: 5–6 on the Mohs scale
• Toughness: Fair
• Lustre: Waxy to dull
• Colour: Sky blue to green
• Crystal System: Triclinic

Common Cutting Styles

Turquoise is almost always cut as cabochons or beads to highlight its smooth surface and soft, even colour. In antique jewellery, turquoise cabochons were frequently set in clusters or as pavé-style inlays. Georgian and Victorian rings often feature turquoise in floral motifs or as sentimental pieces paired with seed pearls or garnets.

Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery

Turquoise was immensely popular in Georgian and early Victorian jewellery, particularly for sentimental or mourning rings. Its soothing blue colour was thought to symbolise remembrance, loyalty, and affection. Cluster rings, toi et moi rings, and engraved bands frequently featured turquoise alongside diamonds, pearls, or garnets. Its appeal resurfaced again in mid-20th-century vintage designs, especially in bohemian and artisan styles.

Symbolism and Lore

Turquoise has long been considered a protective stone. In ancient cultures, it was believed to bring good fortune, ward off evil, and promote healing. In Victorian times, it symbolised enduring love and remembrance, making it a fitting choice for sentimental and memorial jewellery. Today, turquoise remains the birthstone for December and is traditionally given for 11th anniversaries.

Is Turquoise Suitable for Daily Wear?

With moderate hardness and fair toughness, turquoise requires gentle care. It is sensitive to chemicals, heat, and even prolonged sunlight, which can cause discolouration. Antique turquoise rings should be stored away from harder stones and worn with care to preserve their beauty and integrity. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners or commercial polishes, as these can damage the surface.