Tourmaline is one of the most diverse gemstones in the world, celebrated for its dazzling range of colours—from vivid greens and blues to deep pinks and rare bi-colour combinations. Its versatility and relative durability make it a favourite in both antique and vintage jewellery, particularly in colourful Georgian and Art Deco designs.
What Is Tourmaline?
Tourmaline is a boron silicate mineral that naturally forms in an impressive spectrum of colours due to its complex chemical composition. Trace elements like iron, manganese, and lithium influence its hue. Some stones even display bi-colour or tri-colour zoning, such as the well-known “watermelon” tourmaline, which features pink and green in a single crystal.
Gemstone Characteristics
- Hardness: 7–7.5 on the Mohs scale
- Toughness: Good
- Lustre: Vitreous
- Colour: All colours, often bi-colour or zoned
- Crystal System: Trigonal
Common Cutting Styles
Tourmaline is often cut into fancy shapes to maximise colour or show off its unique colour zoning. Cabochons are common for cat’s eye tourmaline (which exhibits chatoyancy), while emerald and step cuts are used for larger, clean crystals. In antique jewellery, you may find tourmalines cut in cushion or rectangular shapes, often foil-backed to enhance colour in Georgian and early Victorian settings.
Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery
Tourmaline appears across a wide range of antique and vintage jewellery styles. In Georgian and Victorian jewellery, green and pink varieties were especially popular and often used in rings, brooches, and lockets. By the Art Deco period, richly coloured tourmalines were paired with platinum and diamonds to create striking contrasts and geometric elegance. Some later vintage rings from the mid-20th century featured the more dramatic watermelon tourmalines and cat’s eye cabochons.
Symbolism and Lore
Tourmaline has long been associated with creativity, emotional balance, and protection. Different colours carry different symbolic meanings: green for vitality, pink for love, black for grounding, and blue for peace. Because it is available in nearly every colour, tourmaline is sometimes thought to harmonise energies and promote confidence. It is also the birthstone for October, alongside opal.
Is Tourmaline Suitable for Daily Wear?
With a hardness of 7–7.5 and good toughness, tourmaline is generally durable enough for rings and daily wear. However, bi-colour specimens and fine inclusions can make some stones more fragile. Antique tourmaline jewellery should be stored carefully and cleaned gently to preserve the gem’s natural colour and lustre.