Once mistaken for ruby for centuries, spinel is now prized in its own right for its vibrant colours, historical charm, and brilliance. From rich reds to pastel pinks and steely blues, spinel has a rich legacy in antique jewellery, especially in pieces dating from the Georgian through to the Edwardian periods.
What Is Spinel?
Spinel is a natural gemstone that forms in a variety of colours due to the presence of trace elements. It is most famously red but is also found in pink, violet, and vibrant blue. Spinel has often been confused with ruby due to its similar appearance and occurrence in the same geological conditions. Only with the advent of modern gemmology was spinel identified as a distinct mineral species.
Gemstone Characteristics
- Hardness: 8 on the Mohs scale
- Toughness: Good
- Lustre: Vitreous
- Colour: Red, pink, violet, blue
- Crystal System: Isometric
Common Cutting Styles
Spinel is most commonly cut into ovals and antique brilliant cuts, often designed to maximise brilliance while preserving colour saturation. In antique jewellery, particularly Georgian and Victorian pieces, spinels were often cut in cushion shapes or old mine styles and sometimes mistaken for rubies or sapphires.
Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery
Spinel has been used in fine jewellery for centuries, often as an underappreciated star. Red spinels in particular were commonly set into royal and ecclesiastical jewellery—sometimes unknowingly. Many antique rings, especially from the Georgian and early Victorian eras, feature spinels in closed-back or foil-backed settings, enhancing their colour and brilliance. Pink and violet spinels became more popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, sometimes set in platinum during the Edwardian era.
Symbolism and Lore
Spinel is associated with rejuvenation, energy, and inspiration. Red spinel symbolises passion and vitality, while violet and blue varieties are thought to bring calm and clarity. For centuries, spinel was viewed as a stone of strength and endurance—ideal qualities for heirloom jewellery. It is now recognised as an alternative birthstone for August.
Is Spinel Suitable for Daily Wear?
With a hardness of 8 and good toughness, spinel is a durable gemstone that is well-suited for everyday wear. It resists scratching better than softer stones and maintains its brilliance over time. Antique spinels, especially those in delicate settings, should still be handled with care to preserve their historical integrity.