Sapphire is one of the most cherished and versatile gemstones in antique and vintage jewellery. Best known for its deep royal blue hue, sapphire also occurs in a wide spectrum of colours. Its exceptional hardness and timeless symbolism have made it a staple in heirloom rings, engagement jewellery, and regal designs across the centuries.

What Is Sapphire?

Sapphire is the non-red variety of the mineral corundum (the red variety is ruby). While blue is the most iconic colour, sapphires also appear in pink, yellow, green, white (colourless), and even rare combinations like padparadscha (pink-orange). Trace elements such as iron, titanium, or chromium influence the gem’s colour. Sapphires have been prized since antiquity and continue to be one of the most sought-after gemstones for fine jewellery.

Gemstone Characteristics

• Hardness: 9 on the Mohs scale
• Toughness: Excellent
• Lustre: Vitreous
• Colour: Blue, yellow, green, pink, colourless (white)
• Crystal System: Trigonal

Common Cutting Styles

Sapphires are most commonly cut as ovals and step cuts, particularly in antique jewellery where the goal was to highlight colour and preserve weight. Cabochon cuts are also typical—especially for star sapphires, which display asterism (a star-like optical effect). In Georgian and Victorian rings, sapphires were often set with closed backs and sometimes foil to enhance their hue.

Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery

Sapphires feature prominently in Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco rings. They were a favourite for engagement rings and often set alongside diamonds in trilogy or cluster arrangements. Edwardian rings often feature blue sapphires in elegant platinum settings with milgrain detail. During the Art Deco period, sapphires were used for bold, geometric contrasts in white metal settings, and occasionally paired with calibre-cut sapphires in stepped arrangements.

Symbolism and Lore

Historically, sapphires have symbolised wisdom, loyalty, and truth. In ancient Persia, people believed the sky was blue because it reflected the colour of a giant sapphire. In more recent history, sapphires have become enduring symbols of faithfulness and sincerity. Sapphire is the birthstone for September and is often given for 5th or 45th anniversaries.

Is Sapphire Suitable for Daily Wear?

With a hardness of 9 and excellent toughness, sapphire is one of the most durable gemstones available, second only to diamond. This makes it an ideal choice for engagement rings and other pieces intended for everyday wear. Antique sapphires—especially in delicate settings—should still be treated with care to preserve their historical craftsmanship.