Renowned for its bold red hue and timeless symbolism, ruby is one of the most treasured gemstones in antique and vintage jewellery. A member of the corundum family, ruby's vibrant colour and exceptional durability have made it a favourite for engagement rings, royal regalia, and meaningful heirloom pieces for centuries.
What Is Ruby?
Ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum, coloured by trace amounts of chromium. All other colours of corundum are classified as sapphire. The most desirable rubies display a rich, deep red colour—sometimes with a purplish undertone—and are often described as "pigeon’s blood" red in the gem trade. Rubies are second only to diamonds in hardness, making them well-suited to daily wear.
Gemstone Characteristics
- Hardness: 9 on the Mohs scale
- Toughness: Excellent
- Lustre: Vitreous
- Colour: Red to purplish red
- Crystal System: Trigonal
Common Cutting Styles
Rubies are often cut into oval, cushion, and mixed cuts to best showcase their colour and clarity. In antique jewellery, cushion cuts and step-cut rubies were popular, particularly in Georgian and Victorian rings. Due to the high value of ruby, cutters prioritise preserving carat weight and colour over perfect symmetry.
Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery
Rubies feature prominently in Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian rings, often paired with old-cut diamonds or pearls. During the Victorian era, rubies symbolised passion and were used frequently in romantic jewellery. Edwardian and Art Deco pieces showcased rubies in platinum or white gold settings, creating bold contrasts and sophisticated designs. Rubies were also commonly used in three-stone rings, eternity bands, and ornate cluster settings.
Symbolism and Lore
Rubies have long been associated with love, power, and vitality. Ancient cultures believed rubies could protect the wearer from harm and misfortune. In European tradition, rubies were a symbol of status and courage. Today, ruby is the birthstone for July and is traditionally gifted for 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries.
Is Ruby Suitable for Daily Wear?
With a hardness of 9 and excellent toughness, ruby is one of the most durable gemstones available. This makes it an excellent choice for rings, particularly engagement and heirloom pieces. However, antique rubies—especially those in delicate settings—should still be worn with care to preserve their historical craftsmanship.