What Are Organic and Biogenic Gemstones?

Unlike traditional gemstones formed deep in the Earth, organic gems originate from biological sources:

• Pearl: Formed in molluscs, pearls are composed of calcium carbonate and are known for their natural lustre and soft elegance.
• Amber: Fossilised tree resin, often containing ancient plant or insect inclusions, with a warm glow and honeyed colour.
• Coral: Formed from the skeletons of marine polyps, coral is prized for its red, pink, and cream tones.
• Jet: A form of fossilised wood, typically black or deep brown, with a smooth surface and historic use in mourning jewellery.

Gemstone Characteristics

• Hardness: Varies (approx. 2.5–4.5 on the Mohs scale)
• Toughness: Generally poor (sensitive to pressure, chemicals, and heat)
• Lustre: Pearly, resinous, or dull depending on material
• Colour: White, cream, black, red, golden, brown, pink
• Crystal System: Organic – no defined crystal structure

Common Cutting Styles

These materials are typically shaped into beads, cabochons, or carvings. Pearls are often used in their natural round form or as baroque shapes. Jet and amber are frequently carved or polished smooth, while coral may be beaded or intricately engraved. All styles were popular in Georgian, Victorian, and Art Nouveau jewellery.

Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery

Organic gems were especially favoured in sentimental and mourning jewellery. Jet was a key feature of Victorian mourning rings and brooches, while pearls and coral were popular for love tokens and christening gifts. Amber saw widespread use in Georgian and early Victorian jewellery, often paired with gold or cut steel. These materials were cherished not only for their appearance, but also for their deep symbolic meanings.

Symbolism and Lore

Pearls have long symbolised purity, innocence, and wisdom. Amber is associated with protection and healing. Coral was believed to guard against harm and was often worn by children. Jet symbolised grief and remembrance and became a key element of Queen Victoria’s mourning dress.

All of these materials held strong sentimental value, particularly in eras where jewellery was worn as an expression of personal or emotional significance.

Are Organic Gems Suitable for Daily Wear?

Due to their softness and sensitivity, organic gemstones require care. They are best suited for occasional wear and should be kept away from heat, moisture, cosmetics, and abrasive surfaces. Store them separately from harder gemstones to prevent damage.