Lapis Lazuli

Lapis Lazuli — Antique Jewellery Guide, Properties & Care

Lapis Lazuli

Lapis lazuli is one of the oldest known gemstones, prized for its rich royal blue colour and shimmering golden flecks of pyrite. Used in jewellery for thousands of years, this opaque gem features prominently in ancient artefacts and remained popular in antique jewellery, particularly in Georgian and Victorian designs.

What Is Lapis Lazuli?

Lapis lazuli is not a single mineral but a rock composed primarily of lazurite, along with calcite and pyrite. Its deep, ultramarine blue colour made it more precious than gold in some ancient cultures. Pyrite inclusions add a distinctive golden sparkle, while the presence of calcite can lighten the stone’s appearance. Most high-quality lapis lazuli comes from Afghanistan, where it has been mined for over 6,000 years.

Gemstone Characteristics

  • Hardness: 5–6 on the Mohs scale
  • Toughness: Fair
  • Lustre: Waxy to dull
  • Colour: Deep royal blue with pyrite inclusions
  • Crystal System: Not a single mineral – primarily Lazurite (isometric)

Common Cutting Styles

Lapis lazuli is almost always cut as cabochons or polished into plaques for rings, brooches, or inlay work. Faceting is rare due to the stone’s opacity and composite nature. In antique jewellery, it is often seen as large, smooth surfaces that emphasise its colour and flecked texture.

Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery

Lapis lazuli appears in Georgian mourning rings, often paired with seed pearls or foil backing. In the Victorian period, it was used in sentimental and exotic styles, as its historical connotations aligned with the era’s romanticism. Lapis saw a resurgence in popularity during the Arts & Crafts and Art Deco periods, where its intense colour suited bold design motifs and naturalistic forms.

Symbolism and Lore

Throughout history, lapis lazuli has symbolised truth, wisdom, and divine favour. Ancient Egyptians used it in amulets and burial masks, while in medieval Europe, it was ground into pigment for painting the robes of the Virgin Mary. Today, it is still associated with protection, introspection, and spiritual enlightenment.

Is Lapis Lazuli Suitable for Daily Wear?

Due to its moderate hardness and fair toughness, lapis lazuli should be worn with care. It can be scratched easily and should be stored separately from harder gemstones. Avoid prolonged exposure to water or chemicals, as these can dull its polish or damage the calcite content. Antique lapis jewellery is best worn for special occasions rather than daily use.

 

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