Kunzite is a delicate, romantic gemstone known for its soft pink to violet tones and strong pleochroism (colour change depending on viewing angle). Though relatively new to the gem world, kunzite found favour in early 20th-century jewellery, particularly during the Edwardian and Art Deco periods.

What Is Kunzite?

Kunzite is the pink to lilac variety of the mineral spodumene. It was first identified in the early 1900s and named after American gemologist George Frederick Kunz. Its gentle colour and large crystal sizes quickly made it a popular choice for elegant, pastel-toned jewellery. The gemstone’s colour is usually due to trace amounts of manganese, and it often displays strong pleochroism—appearing colourless from one angle and richly pink from another.

Gemstone Characteristics

• Hardness: 6.5–7 on the Mohs scale
• Toughness: Poor (sensitive to knocks and thermal shock)
• Lustre: Vitreous
• Colour: Pale pink to violet
• Crystal System: Monoclinic
• Discovered: Early 20th century

Common Cutting Styles

Kunzite is typically cut in emerald and step cuts to highlight its colour and transparency while minimising strain on the stone. Because of its pleochroism, expert lapidaries orient the gem carefully during cutting to maximise visible colour.

Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery

While kunzite is not found in earlier antique pieces due to its relatively recent discovery, it became popular in Edwardian and Art Deco jewellery, where its soft hues complemented platinum, white gold, and filigree settings. It was especially loved for cocktail rings, brooches, and statement pendants in the 1920s and 1930s, aligning with the pastel palettes of the time.

Symbolism and Lore

Associated with love, emotional healing, and femininity, kunzite is often considered a stone of the heart. It’s thought to promote calm, compassion, and openness, making it a meaningful gift for special occasions. Its soothing colour and spiritual associations give it added value for collectors who appreciate the emotional resonance of gemstones.

Is Kunzite Suitable for Daily Wear?

Due to its poor toughness, kunzite is better suited to occasional wear rather than everyday use. It is prone to cleavage (splitting) if struck and can fade over time when exposed to strong sunlight. Antique kunzite rings should be worn with care and stored away from direct light to preserve their colour and integrity.