Jade has long been revered for its smooth finish, calming colours, and exceptional durability. Often associated with spiritual and cultural traditions, jade is actually a term that covers two distinct minerals—jadeite and nephrite. While visually similar, they differ in composition, rarity, and in some cases, historical usage. Both materials have been carved and worn for centuries and continue to feature in antique and vintage jewellery.
What Are Jade and Nephrite?
Jadeite is the rarer and more vibrant variety of jade, known for its intense green hues, translucency, and fine grain. It is most commonly found in Myanmar (Burma) and was highly prized in 19th- and 20th-century jewellery.
Nephrite, by contrast, is more common and has been used for thousands of years, particularly in Chinese, Māori, and Mesoamerican cultures. It has a fibrous structure that gives it exceptional toughness and a more muted appearance than jadeite.
Gemstone Characteristics
- Hardness: 6–7 on the Mohs scale
- Toughness: Excellent
- Lustre: Greasy to waxy
- Colour: Green, white, lavender, and more
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Crystal System:
- Jadeite: Monoclinic
- Nephrite: Monoclinic (Amphibole group)
Common Cutting Styles
Jade is typically cut into cabochons for rings and pendants, allowing its colour and translucency to shine. Intricate carvings are also common, especially in East Asian designs, where jade has long symbolised purity, harmony, and protection. In antique Western jewellery, jade was often shaped into simple cabochons or plaques and set into gold or silver mounts, especially during the Art Deco period.
Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery
Jadeite became highly fashionable in the West during the 19th and early 20th centuries, particularly in jewellery influenced by Chinese art and the Art Deco movement. Nephrite, meanwhile, appears in more ancient or culturally specific artefacts, though it occasionally features in Victorian and Edwardian jewellery where symbolism or exoticism was desired.
Symbolism and Lore
In many cultures, jade is a symbol of serenity, wisdom, and protection. In Chinese tradition, jade is more than a decorative stone—it is considered a bearer of virtues like honesty, purity, and longevity. Nephrite, used historically for ceremonial weapons and ornaments, was believed to ward off evil and bring strength. Today, jade continues to be a meaningful gift, often associated with healing and spiritual balance.
Is Jade Suitable for Daily Wear?
With excellent toughness, both jadeite and nephrite are suitable for daily wear. However, their relatively moderate hardness means they can still scratch if stored or worn with harder gemstones. When well cared for, jade jewellery can last generations and develop a beautiful surface polish over time.