Rich in variety and steeped in history, garnets are among the oldest gemstones used in jewellery. Known for their deep reds but found in a rainbow of colours, garnets have adorned antique and vintage rings from the Georgian era through to the early 20th century. Durable and full of character, they remain a meaningful choice for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
What Are Garnets?
Garnet is not a single species but a group of closely related minerals sharing a common crystal structure and similar properties. While red almandine garnet is the most familiar, the garnet family also includes:
- Pyrope: Deep red, often found in Victorian jewellery
- Spessartine: Orange to reddish-orange hues
- Grossular: Green to yellow-green, including the prized tsavorite
- Andradite: Includes demantoid garnet, a brilliant green variety popular in antique Russian pieces
- Uvarovite: A rare, bright green garnet usually seen as druzy crystals
Gemstone Characteristics
- Hardness: 6.5–7.5 on the Mohs scale
- Toughness: Good
- Lustre: Vitreous to resinous
- Colour: Red, green, orange, pink, brown, and more
- Crystal System: Isometric
Common Cutting Styles
Antique garnets are often seen in rose cuts, with domed tops and flat backs to enhance their natural glow. Cabochons and faceted ovals or rounds were common in Georgian and Victorian designs. Demantoid garnets—prized for their dispersion or "fire"—were typically faceted to maximise brilliance.
Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery
Garnets were a favourite in Georgian mourning rings and were frequently used in Victorian sentimental jewellery, often set in clusters or floral motifs. Pyrope garnets from Bohemia (modern-day Czech Republic) were mass-produced in the 19th century and remain iconic in antique pieces. Green demantoid garnets featured in rare but exquisite late Victorian and Edwardian jewellery, especially in Russian pieces.
Symbolism and Lore
Garnets have been linked to protection, passion, and vitality for thousands of years. In ancient times, travellers carried garnets for safety, and in Victorian symbolism, garnets often represented enduring love or devotion. Today, garnet is the birthstone for January and a traditional gift for 2nd anniversaries.
Is Garnet Suitable for Everyday Wear?
Garnets have good toughness and moderate hardness, making them suitable for regular wear with appropriate care. They are more resistant to breaking than some brittle stones but can still be scratched by harder materials. Older rose-cut garnets in closed-back settings should be handled gently and stored separately.