Rich in colour and royal in legacy, emerald is one of the most precious and historic gemstones in the world. Its deep green hues and natural inclusions have captivated civilisations for millennia, making it a prized centrepiece in antique and vintage jewellery, from Georgian rings to Art Deco designs.
What Is Emerald?
Emerald is the green variety of the mineral beryl, coloured by trace amounts of chromium or vanadium. It has long been considered one of the “big three” precious gems, alongside ruby and sapphire. Known for its deep, vibrant colour, emeralds often contain visible inclusions—known as “jardin” (French for garden)—which are accepted as part of their natural character.
Gemstone Characteristics
- Hardness: 7.5–8 on the Mohs scale
- Toughness: Poor to fair (due to inclusions)
- Lustre: Vitreous
- Colour: Deep green to bluish green
- Crystal System: Hexagonal
Common Cutting Styles
The emerald cut was specifically developed for emeralds. Its rectangular shape with stepped facets helps reduce pressure during cutting and wear, preserving the gem’s integrity. Ovals and antique cushion cuts are also common, particularly in Georgian and Victorian jewellery.
Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery
Emeralds have adorned jewellery since ancient times and are found throughout antique collections. In Georgian jewellery, emeralds were set in closed-back settings, often with foil behind the stone to intensify colour. During the Victorian era, emeralds were frequently paired with diamonds and pearls in sentimental and symbolic designs. In the Art Deco period, emeralds were celebrated for their contrast with onyx, platinum, and geometric motifs.
Symbolism and Lore
Emeralds have symbolised rebirth, love, and eternal youth throughout history. Ancient Egyptians revered them as a symbol of fertility and immortality, while Romans associated them with Venus, the goddess of love. Today, emerald is the birthstone for May and a traditional gift for 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries.
Is Emerald Suitable for Daily Wear?
While emeralds are relatively hard, their brittleness due to inclusions makes them less durable than other gemstones. They require protective settings and occasional re-oiling to maintain their appearance. For antique emerald rings, careful handling and storage are especially important.