Softly glowing with hues of pale blue, grey and lavender, chalcedony is a microcrystalline form of quartz prized for its smooth texture and subtle beauty. Durable yet gentle in appearance, chalcedony has been a favourite material for carvers and jewellers since ancient times—and remains a frequent feature in antique jewellery.
What Is Chalcedony?
Chalcedony refers to a compact variety of quartz made up of microscopic crystals, giving it a smooth, almost waxy surface. Unlike transparent gemstones, chalcedony is translucent to opaque, often appearing soft and luminous. It encompasses many subtypes, including agate, carnelian, and onyx, but the term “chalcedony” often refers specifically to its pale blue or lavender varieties in jewellery.
Gemstone Characteristics
- Hardness: 6.5–7 on the Mohs scale
- Toughness: Excellent
- Lustre: Waxy to dull
- Colour: Pale blue, grey, lavender
- Crystal System: Trigonal (microcrystalline quartz)
Common Cutting Styles
Chalcedony is typically cut as a cabochon, which complements its smooth surface and soft glow. It’s also a traditional material for carving cameos and intaglios, with its fine grain allowing for intricate detail. These cuts are especially prevalent in antique Georgian, Victorian and Art Nouveau pieces.
Use in Antique and Vintage Jewellery
Thanks to its durability and gentle colouring, chalcedony appears frequently in antique rings, brooches, and lockets. It was especially popular in Georgian jewellery, where it was used for symbolic intaglios and mourning pieces. During the Victorian era, its use expanded into romantic designs and classical revival styles, and in the early 20th century it featured in bold Art Deco settings, often alongside onyx and black enamel.
Symbolism and Lore
Historically, chalcedony was thought to bring calm and balance. It was used as a talisman against negative energy and was believed to foster goodwill and harmonise relationships. In Roman times, carved chalcedony seals were worn to signify trust and loyalty—fittingly, it’s still associated with emotional stability and kindness today.
Is Chalcedony Suitable for Everyday Wear?
With a good hardness and excellent toughness, chalcedony is well suited to regular wear. Its resilience to chipping and its smooth, waxy finish make it ideal for rings and pendants. That said, it should be stored away from harder stones like sapphire or diamond to avoid surface scratching.