November Birthstone: Topaz & Citrine
November has two birthstones: topaz and citrine. Both appear in warm golden tones that led to centuries of confusion between them, but they are distinct minerals with different properties, hardness, and histories in the jewellery trade. Topaz dominated Georgian and Victorian jewellery as a prized gemstone in its own right, while citrine gained recognition as Scotland's cairngorm and later became a signature stone of the Art Deco period. This guide covers the origins, properties, and antique significance of both November birthstones.
What Are the November Birthstones?
The two November birthstones are topaz and citrine. Topaz was included in the first standardised birthstone list published by the American National Association of Jewelers in 1912. Citrine was added as a November alternative in 1952, when the Jewelry Industry Council of America revised the list to include more affordable options for several months.
The association between topaz and November predates the 1912 standardisation. Tiffany & Co. published a pamphlet of "Gregorian Birthstone Poems" in 1870 that assigned topaz to the eleventh month. The UK's National Association of Goldsmiths published its own list in 1937 with topaz alone for November — and the current British list retains only topaz. The American list recognises both stones.
The dual designation reflects a practical reality: natural topaz in fine golden colours was scarce and expensive by the mid-twentieth century, while citrine offered a visually similar alternative at a fraction of the cost. Both stones share warm amber and golden tones, which only deepened the long-standing trade confusion between them. For the full range of gemstone properties and symbolic associations, visit our A-Z of Gemstones reference.
| Property | Topaz | Citrine |
|---|---|---|
| Mohs Hardness | 8 | 7 |
| Chemical Composition | Al₂(F,OH)₂SiO₄ | SiO₂ (quartz) |
| Crystal System | Orthorhombic | Trigonal |
| Specific Gravity | 3.53 | 2.66 |
| Refractive Index | 1.619–1.627 | 1.544–1.553 |
| Primary Historical Source | Brazil (Minas Gerais) | Brazil, Scotland (cairngorm) |
What Is Topaz?
Topaz is an aluminium fluorosilicate mineral with the chemical formula Al₂(F,OH)₂SiO₄. It rates 8 on the Mohs hardness scale — the hardest silicate mineral — and occurs naturally in colourless, yellow, orange, brown, pink, and blue varieties. The most valued antique specimens display warm golden to pinkish-orange tones rather than the treated blue common today.
Pure topaz is colourless; trace elements and defects in the crystal structure produce its range of hues. Iron and chromium create the yellow-to-orange spectrum, while chromium alone generates the rare and prized pink and red tones. Natural blue topaz exists but is extremely uncommon — nearly all blue topaz on the contemporary market results from irradiation treatment of colourless stones.
Topaz has one weakness despite its hardness: perfect basal cleavage. A sharp impact along the cleavage plane can split the stone cleanly in two, which explains why antique jewellers favoured protective collet and bezel settings over more exposed claw mounts. The stone's specific gravity of 3.53 gives it a noticeably heavier feel than quartz varieties of similar size — a heft test that experienced dealers use to distinguish topaz from citrine in unmounted stones.
Where Does the Name Topaz Come From?
The name derives from the Greek Topazios, the ancient name for an island in the Red Sea now known as Zabargad or St John's Island. The island never actually produced topaz — it was a source of peridot — but the name transferred to the mineral now called topaz during the eighteenth century as mineralogical classification developed.
The confusion runs deep. From Pliny the Elder's writings in the first century AD through to the twelfth century, "topaz" referred to what is now called peridot — the yellowish-green stone mined on Zabargad. An alternative etymology traces the name to the Sanskrit word "tapas," meaning fire, a reference to the stone's warm golden colour.
By the eighteenth century, the stone now recognised as topaz had assumed the name, and the green mineral from Zabargad was assigned its own identity as peridot, from the Arabic "faridat," meaning gem. This historical confusion only compounded the separate problem of topaz being routinely conflated with citrine in the jewellery trade — two distinct muddles that persisted in parallel for centuries.
How Was Topaz Used in Antique Jewellery?
Topaz reached peak popularity in Georgian and Regency jewellery after Portuguese traders began shipping large, fine crystals from Brazil's Minas Gerais region to Europe in the mid-eighteenth century. The Portuguese government officially recognised the Ouro Preto topaz deposits in 1768, and golden topaz became a defining gemstone of the period.
The archetypal Georgian parure featured large, bright, oval-shaped topaz mounted in gold cannetille work — a filigree technique of coiled wire — alongside girandole brooches, matching bracelets, and long pear-shaped earrings. Foil-backed golden and pink topaz appeared in rings with half-pearl surrounds, and graduated rivière necklaces set with oval foil-backed topaz were highly fashionable during the Regency period.
Victorian jewellers continued the tradition, setting topaz in large diamond-set gold brooches and rings. The stone also appeared in sentimental pieces: keys, hearts, padlocks, and jewelled anchors. By the Art Deco period, topaz had fallen from fashion — its warm brown tones did not suit the geometric diamond, ruby, sapphire, and onyx compositions that defined the era.
Explore our Victorian ring collection for antique rings from the era when topaz and other coloured gemstones featured prominently in British jewellery.
What Is Imperial Topaz?
Imperial topaz is the rarest and most valued variety, displaying a distinctive pinkish-gold to orange-pink colour. The name originated in the nineteenth century, honouring either the Russian Imperial family — who restricted a similar pinkish topaz from the Ural Mountains to the court — or the Brazilian Imperial house whose territory supplied the finest stones.
Ouro Preto in Minas Gerais, Brazil, has been the world's primary source of imperial topaz for over two hundred years, with gem prospectors working the region as early as the 1730s. The deposits there remain the only commercially viable source today. Imperial topaz from the Ural Mountains, while historically significant, is no longer produced in commercial quantities.
Fabergé and other leading late nineteenth-century jewellers selected imperial topaz for Neo-Classical diamond-set brooches, prizing its warm lustre against white metal settings. The American Golden Topaz — a 22,892.5-carat faceted stone cut from rough mined at Ouro Preto — is now displayed at the Smithsonian's National Museum of Natural History, donated in 1988. The original rough weighed approximately 26 pounds before cutting.
What Is Citrine?
Citrine is the yellow to brownish-orange variety of quartz, sharing its chemical composition (SiO₂) and crystal structure with amethyst. It rates 7 on the Mohs hardness scale and owes its colour to trace amounts of iron within the crystal lattice. Natural citrine in strong colours is considerably rarer than its widespread availability on the market suggests.
Most citrine sold today results from heat-treating amethyst or smoky quartz. When amethyst is heated to temperatures between approximately 470°C and 560°C, its purple colouring converts to the golden yellows and oranges associated with citrine. This treatment is stable and permanent, but truly natural unheated citrine in saturated colours commands a premium among collectors and gemmologists.
The historical confusion between citrine and topaz generated a host of misleading trade names. "Bahia topaz," "Madeira topaz," and "Scottish topaz" all referred to citrine, not true topaz — names now discouraged by gemmological organisations including the GIA but still encountered in antique jewellery descriptions and auction catalogues. The visual similarity between golden citrine and golden topaz made the deception effective to the untrained eye for generations.
How Was Citrine Used in Antique Jewellery?
Citrine's most distinctive role in antique jewellery is as cairngorm — the smoky golden quartz native to Scotland's Cairngorm Mountains. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Scottish culture after purchasing Balmoral Castle in the 1850s drove demand for cairngorm-set brooches, dirks, and kilt pins throughout the Victorian period.
The Great Exhibition of 1851 introduced cairngorm to a wider audience beyond Scotland. Edinburgh and Aberdeen lapidary workshops became skilled at faceting these stones, with larger specimens particularly valued. Cairngorm brooches set in silver or 15ct gold featured prominently in the Scottish tourist trade from the 1860s onwards, but the Victorian appetite for the stone eventually depleted the original Cairngorm Mountain deposits.
Citrine enjoyed a second period of prominence during the Art Deco era. Its bold golden and amber tones suited the period's geometric designs, and the availability of large Brazilian stones allowed jewellers to cut the substantial step-cut and emerald-cut gems that the style demanded. Citrine cluster rings from the 1920s and 1930s pair the stone with rose-cut diamonds in settings that remain collectible today.
How Can You Tell Topaz from Citrine?
Despite their similar golden colours, topaz and citrine differ in hardness, density, and optical properties. The simplest non-laboratory distinction is weight: a topaz stone feels noticeably heavier than a citrine of the same size because topaz has a specific gravity of 3.53 compared to citrine's 2.66. A refractometer provides definitive gemmological separation.
Topaz reads 1.619–1.627 on the refractive index, while citrine reads 1.544–1.553 — a gap wide enough to eliminate ambiguity. Under polarised light, topaz shows different optical characteristics owing to its orthorhombic crystal structure, distinct from citrine's trigonal system.
| Test | Topaz | Citrine |
|---|---|---|
| Heft (specific gravity) | 3.53 — heavier | 2.66 — lighter |
| Refractive Index | 1.619–1.627 | 1.544–1.553 |
| Mohs Hardness | 8 | 7 |
| Cleavage | Perfect basal | None |
| Crystal System | Orthorhombic | Trigonal |
For collectors examining antique rings without laboratory equipment, practical indicators help. Topaz typically appears in higher-quality gold settings — 18ct or above — reflecting its greater historical value. Citrine, being more affordable, more often appears in 9ct or 15ct gold. Foil backing in a Georgian setting suggests topaz, as jewellers applied foil to enhance valuable stones rather than inexpensive quartz varieties.
How Should You Care for Topaz and Citrine Rings?
Both stones are durable enough for regular wear, but topaz requires particular caution around its cleavage plane. Avoid sharp impacts and sudden temperature changes with topaz, as either can cause the stone to fracture along its natural splitting direction. Citrine, lacking cleavage, tolerates everyday knocks and minor impacts more readily.
Clean both stones with warm soapy water and a soft cloth. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners for topaz — the vibrations risk exploiting the basal cleavage — though citrine tolerates ultrasonic cleaning safely. Neither stone should be exposed to harsh chemicals, concentrated heat, or steam cleaning.
Store topaz and citrine rings separately from harder gemstones such as diamonds and sapphires, which will scratch both stones. When wearing antique rings set with either November birthstone, remove them before gardening, heavy cleaning, or manual work. The original settings on antique pieces are irreplaceable, and a loose or damaged collet compromises the stone's security far more than it would in a modern ring that can be easily re-mounted.
Discover our full antique gemstone ring collection to see antique rings featuring both November birthstones and other coloured gemstones.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is topaz more valuable than citrine?
In most cases, yes. Fine imperial topaz in untreated pinkish-gold tones commands prices comparable to quality sapphire. Natural citrine is more affordable, though exceptional untreated specimens in deep amber colours hold value among collectors. In antique jewellery, the setting, era, and condition affect price alongside the stone — a well-preserved Victorian citrine ring in 18ct gold may exceed the value of an unremarkable modern topaz piece.
Are November birthstone rings suitable for engagement rings?
Both stones are hard enough for engagement wear. Topaz at Mohs 8 offers excellent scratch resistance, though its cleavage requires a protective setting. Citrine at Mohs 7 handles daily wear well in a secure mount. For an engagement ring intended for constant wear, topaz in a bezel or collet setting provides the best combination of durability and visual warmth among the two November birthstones.
Why was citrine historically called "Scottish topaz"?
The trade name exploited the visual similarity between golden citrine and true topaz to command higher prices. Cairngorm quartz from Scotland's Cairngorm Mountains was marketed as "Scottish topaz" despite being a variety of quartz, not a silicate mineral. Gemmological organisations now discourage all such compound names — "Bahia topaz," "Madeira topaz," and "smoky topaz" are equally misleading terms for citrine or smoky quartz.
What colour of topaz is most valuable?
Imperial topaz in a saturated pinkish-orange to reddish-orange colour, often described as sherry-toned, commands the highest prices. This colour occurs naturally only in deposits near Ouro Preto, Brazil, and represents a small fraction of overall topaz production. Blue topaz, though widely available and popular in modern jewellery, is almost always produced by irradiation treatment of colourless stones — natural blue specimens are exceptionally rare.
Can the stone in an antique ring help determine the ring's age?
Not definitively, but the stone provides clues. Topaz in foil-backed closed settings points to the Georgian or early Victorian period. Citrine in silver-mounted Scottish-style brooches or kilt pins suggests mid-to-late Victorian manufacture. Art Deco pieces favour citrine in bold geometric cuts. Hallmarks inside the band remain the most reliable dating method — read our guide to hallmark identification for a detailed walkthrough.
Related Reading
- October Birthstone: Opal & Tourmaline — the preceding month's birthstone guide
- Gemstone Symbolism: What Stones Really Mean — the cultural meanings behind antique gemstone choices
- Georgian Rings (1714–1837): Candlelight & Craft — the era when topaz reached peak popularity in jewellery
- Read our complete guide to gemstones in antique rings — the Gemstones pillar page