Antique 1917 baroque pearl ring with rose cut diamonds in an elaborate scrollwork mount, the large natural pearl displaying iridescent orient

June Birthstone: Pearl, Alexandrite & Moonstone

June is one of only two months assigned three birthstones: pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone. Pearl — the only organic gem on any birthstone list — has represented June since the first standardised list of 1912. Alexandrite joined in 1952, and moonstone has held its place alongside pearl from the start. Each stone carries a distinct history in antique jewellery, from the natural pearls set in Victorian mourning rings to the moonstone cabochons favoured by Art Nouveau designers. This guide covers all three June birthstones, their properties, and their place in antique rings.

What Are the Three June Birthstones?

June's three birthstones are pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone. Pearl and moonstone were both included when the American National Retail Jewelers Association published the first standardised birthstone list in August 1912. Alexandrite was added in 1952 by the Jewelry Industry Council of America, giving June the most diverse birthstone selection of any month.

The concept of linking gemstones to birth months has ancient roots. The first-century historian Josephus drew a connection between the twelve stones of Aaron's Breastplate, described in the Book of Exodus, and the twelve months of the year. By the medieval period, wearing a gem corresponding to the current month was common practice across Europe.

The 1912 standardisation ended centuries of conflicting lists by assigning fixed stones to each month. June's three-stone allocation reflects the practical reality that pearl — soft, organic, and vulnerable to everyday wear — benefits from harder alternatives. Alexandrite offers exceptional hardness at 8.5 on the Mohs scale, while moonstone sits at 6 to 6.5.

Stone Mohs Hardness Type First Listed
Pearl 2.5–4.5 Organic (nacre) 1912
Alexandrite 8.5 Mineral (chrysoberyl) 1952
Moonstone 6–6.5 Mineral (feldspar) 1912

Why Is Pearl the Traditional June Birthstone?

Pearl became June's primary birthstone through centuries of association with purity, femininity, and the moon. An 1870 birthstone poem linked pearl to June, and the 1912 industry list cemented the connection. Unlike mineral gemstones, pearls form inside living molluscs, a biological origin that gives them unique lustre and fragility.

In ancient Rome, pearls symbolised Venus, goddess of love and beauty. The association with tears — pearls were believed to be crystallised tears of gods across multiple cultures — made them standard in mourning jewellery. After Prince Albert's death in 1861, Queen Victoria wore pearls as her primary adornment for the remaining forty years of her reign, reinforcing their connection to grief and remembrance throughout British society.

All pearls in Victorian jewellery (pre-1901) and the majority of Edwardian pieces are natural. Kokichi Mikimoto produced his first cultured half-pearl in Japan in 1893, but commercially viable round cultured pearls did not reach the market until the early 1920s. A pearl in a hallmarked Victorian setting is, by definition, a natural pearl. Read our full guide to pearls in antique rings for detailed coverage of pearl types and natural pearl identification.

Antique 1917 baroque pearl ring with rose cut diamonds in an elaborate scrollwork mount, the large natural pearl displaying iridescent orient
The Antique 1917 Baroque Pearl and Rose Cut Diamond Elaborate Ring

How Were Pearls Set in Antique Rings?

Victorian jewellers set natural pearls in cup-shaped collet mounts that cradled the stone without point pressure, protecting the soft nacre surface. Seed pearls — under 2mm in diameter — were used for decorative borders and floral motifs, while half-pearls provided affordable ornamentation in sentimental and mourning pieces.

Seed pearl work reached peak popularity between 1840 and 1860. Complete suites of seed pearl jewellery — earrings, brooches, necklaces, and matching hair ornaments — were assembled by hand, with each tiny pearl individually drilled and threaded. Seed pearls appeared frequently in mourning jewellery, set against black enamel or woven hairwork.

The Edwardian period brought a shift towards platinum settings with millegrain borders and filigree detail. Pearls were often paired with diamonds, and the contrast between the pearl's warm lustre and platinum's cool brightness defined the era's aesthetic. Browse our collection of antique pearl rings to see examples spanning from Georgian closed-back mounts to Edwardian diamond-accented designs, or visit our A-Z of Gemstones reference for pearl identification guidance.

Late Victorian pearl and sapphire ring in yellow gold with a central natural pearl flanked by two sapphires in star-shaped claw settings
The Antique Late Victorian Pearl and Sapphire Ring

What Is Alexandrite and Why Does It Change Colour?

Alexandrite is a colour-changing variety of chrysoberyl, first found in Russia's Ural Mountains around 1830. The Finnish mineralogist Nils Gustaf Nordenskiöld formally identified it in 1834, and Count Perovskii named it after the future Tsar Alexander II, whose imperial colours of red and green the stone's dramatic colour shift echoed.

The colour change occurs because chromium ions within the chrysoberyl crystal absorb light in the yellow part of the spectrum. In daylight, richer in blue-green wavelengths, the stone appears green. Under incandescent light or candlelight, which emphasises red wavelengths, it shifts to raspberry red. Chromium — the same element responsible for emerald's green and ruby's red — must be present in a precise concentration to produce this dual-colour effect. The strength of colour change varies between specimens: the finest examples shift from a vivid grass green to a deep purplish red, while lesser stones show only a partial shift between brownish green and brownish red. Gemmologists grade alexandrite colour change on a spectrum from weak to strong, and stones displaying a complete, saturated shift across both lighting conditions command the highest prices at auction.

Alexandrite requires both beryllium and chromium to coexist in the same geological environment, a combination that occurs only rarely. The original Russian deposits near the Tokovaya River have been largely exhausted, and modern sources in Brazil, Sri Lanka, and East Africa produce stones with generally less dramatic colour change. Alexandrite in antique jewellery is uncommon; Victorian examples typically feature stones of one to three carats in ornate gold settings with diamond or seed pearl accents.

Property Detail
Mineral Chrysoberyl (BeAl₂O₄)
Mohs Hardness 8.5
Colour (Daylight) Green to bluish-green
Colour (Incandescent) Red to purplish-red
Cause of Colour Change Chromium (Cr³⁺)
First Identified 1834, Ural Mountains, Russia

What Makes Moonstone Glow?

Moonstone's floating light — called adularescence — results from light scattering between alternating microscopic layers of two feldspar minerals, orthoclase and albite. As the mineral cools during formation, these species separate into thin, stacked layers. Light entering the stone scatters between them, producing a billowing blue or white sheen across the cabochon surface.

Ancient Romans believed moonstone formed from solidified moonlight, and Pliny the Elder described how its appearance shifted with lunar phases. In Hindu tradition, moonstone holds sacred significance and has been linked to lunar deities for millennia. Sri Lanka remains the classical source, producing specimens with vivid blue adularescence against a near-transparent body.

Moonstone became a favoured stone of the Art Nouveau movement between approximately 1890 and 1910. René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany both incorporated moonstone into their jewellery designs, drawn to its organic, ethereal glow and its compatibility with the naturalistic forms that defined the movement. Victorian jewellers had already set moonstone as high-domed cabochons in bezel settings; Edwardian pieces paired it with rose-cut diamonds in millegrain-edged platinum mounts. At 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale, moonstone requires careful setting to protect it from impact damage. For a fuller account, read our guide to moonstone in antique jewellery.

Victorian moonstone and old cut diamond cluster ring with a central cabochon moonstone displaying blue adularescence, surrounded by old cut diamonds in yellow gold
The Antique Victorian Moonstone and Old Cut Diamond Cluster Ring

How Do June's Three Birthstones Compare?

Pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone differ in hardness, rarity, and visual effect. Pearl offers soft organic lustre, alexandrite provides dramatic colour change, and moonstone displays a floating internal glow. Their durability ranges from pearl's fragile 2.5 on the Mohs scale to alexandrite's resilient 8.5, making each suited to different styles of jewellery.

Property Pearl Alexandrite Moonstone
Type Organic (nacre) Mineral (chrysoberyl) Mineral (feldspar)
Mohs Hardness 2.5–4.5 8.5 6–6.5
Optical Effect Orient (surface iridescence) Colour change Adularescence
Classical Source Persian Gulf, Japan Russia (Ural Mountains) Sri Lanka
Antique Availability Common Very rare Moderate
Typical Antique Setting Collet, cluster, half-pearl work Faceted in gold mounts Cabochon in bezel

Pearl rings are the most commonly encountered in the antique market, given the stone's long-standing popularity in sentimental and mourning pieces. Alexandrite rings from before 1920 are exceptionally rare and command high prices at auction. Moonstone appears most frequently in late Victorian and Art Nouveau settings, typically cut as cabochons to maximise adularescence.

Caring for June birthstone rings requires matching precautions to each stone's hardness. Pearls should never be exposed to chemicals, perfume, or ultrasonic cleaning. Moonstone, though harder than pearl, is vulnerable to knocks because of its pronounced cleavage planes. Alexandrite is the most practical of the three for daily wear, combining excellent hardness with a toughness comparable to sapphire. Its resistance to scratching and chemical damage makes it suitable for rings worn continuously, though the stone's extreme rarity means most alexandrite rings are reserved for special occasions rather than everyday use. Explore our antique gemstone ring collection for pieces featuring each of June's birthstones, or read our complete guide to gemstones in antique rings for the full picture.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you wear a pearl ring every day?

Pearl ranks between 2.5 and 4.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it one of the softest gemstones set in rings. Daily wear risks scratching the nacre surface and dulling the lustre over time. Remove a pearl ring before washing hands, applying cosmetics, or handling household chemicals. Store it separately from harder gemstones to prevent abrasion, and clean occasionally with a soft damp cloth.

Is alexandrite more valuable than diamond?

Fine natural alexandrite with strong colour change is rarer than diamond and, carat for carat, often more expensive. Stones from the original Russian Ural Mountain deposits command the highest prices. Modern sources in Brazil and Sri Lanka produce alexandrite with less dramatic colour shift, trading at lower prices but still ranking among the most costly coloured gemstones per carat.

What is the best June birthstone for an engagement ring?

Alexandrite, at 8.5 on the Mohs scale, is the most durable option but fine examples are scarce and expensive. Pearl is traditional but soft — daily wear can damage the nacre. Moonstone sits between the two in hardness but is vulnerable to chipping along cleavage planes. For a stone that balances beauty and practicality, alexandrite is the strongest choice if budget allows.

How can you tell if a pearl is natural or cultured?

X-ray examination is the definitive method. Natural pearls show concentric nacre layers throughout, while cultured pearls reveal a bead nucleus at the centre. A gemmological laboratory such as GIA or Gem-A can confirm the distinction. For antique rings, the hallmark date provides a strong indicator — pearls in settings hallmarked before 1920 predate commercially available round cultured pearls and are almost certainly natural.

Does moonstone come in colours other than white?

Moonstone occurs in peach, grey, green, champagne, and near-colourless varieties. The most prized is blue moonstone from Sri Lanka, which shows vivid blue adularescence across a transparent body. Rainbow moonstone — technically a variety of labradorite rather than true orthoclase moonstone — displays multicoloured flashes. In antique jewellery, clear to milky white cabochons with blue sheen are the most commonly encountered.

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