Edwardian Symbolic Jewellery: Hidden Meanings in Rings and Brooches
Edwardian jewellery encoded personal messages, political allegiances, and protective beliefs in gemstones, motifs, and colours. A ring that appeared merely decorative might spell a hidden word in its stones, declare support for women's suffrage through its colour scheme, or promise the wearer protection from misfortune. This guide decodes the symbolic language of the period and explains what each element meant to its wearer — particularly in the rings that survive today.
What Were Acrostic Rings and How Did They Spell Hidden Messages?
Acrostic rings used the first letter of each gemstone to spell sentimental words. REGARD — Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond — was the most popular, a declaration of affection exchanged between lovers, spouses, and close friends. DEAREST — Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Topaz — offered an even more intimate message. Other documented combinations include ADORE (Amethyst, Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Emerald).
The tradition began in 1809 when the French jeweller Mellerio introduced the concept, first documented in an 1811 Gazette de France article. It gained popularity in Georgian England during the 1820s–1830s and continued through the Victorian and Edwardian periods. REGARD rings were "a phenomenally popular choice for engagement rings in the Victorian era," according to The Jewellery Editor, and remained in production well into the Edwardian period.
How to Read an Acrostic Ring
The message reads from the first stone to the last, following the order they appear on the ring. The stones' first letters spell the word. An antique locket from about 1820 combined REGARD stones in its outer circle with a pansy flower (meaning "thinking of you") in the inner circle — demonstrating how acrostic and floral symbolism were layered together in a single piece. For the full history of this tradition and how to identify genuine examples, see our guide to Regard Rings and Acrostic Jewellery.
Did Suffragette Jewellery Really Mean "Give Women Votes"?
The Women's Social and Political Union (WSPU) officially adopted purple, white, and green as their colours in 1908. Mrs Emmeline Pethick-Lawrence, the WSPU treasurer, announced the colours and their meanings: purple stands for royal blood and dignity, white for purity, and green for hope.
The popular belief that the initials stood for "Give Women Votes" is a modern myth. Beverley Cook, the Museum of London curator responsible for their suffragette collection, confirmed there is "nothing in the museum's collection to support" this interpretation. The WSPU's slogan was "Votes for Women," not "Give Women Votes." An American publication promoted the green-white-violet acrostic in January 1910, but this was a later reinterpretation, not a British WSPU origin.
Suffragette Colours in Rings
Suffragette jewellery typically combined amethyst (purple), pearl (white), and peridot (green). The most iconic piece was the Holloway Brooch, designed by Sylvia Pankhurst and manufactured by Toye & Co in 1909, incorporating the portcullis of the House of Commons and the broad arrow of imprisonment. Mainstream retailers including Selfridge's and Liberty sold suffragette-coloured items. The jeweller Child & Child produced a suffragist necklace around 1908, now held by the V&A.
A Collector's Caution
Not all Edwardian jewellery in purple, white, and green was intended as suffragette jewellery. These gemstone colours were already fashionable: peridot was reportedly King Edward VII's favourite gemstone, and demantoid garnet had been popular since the 1860s. Experienced dealers acknowledge that genuine suffragette pieces are difficult to authenticate without documented provenance. A ring set with amethyst and peridot may have been a suffragette statement — or simply a fashionable colour combination.
What Lucky Charms and Superstitions Appeared on Edwardian Jewellery?
Despite the era's modern outlook and scientific advances, Edwardian society remained superstitious. Jewellery served as portable protection against misfortune, with specific symbols and gemstones believed to ward off evil or attract good fortune.
Horseshoes — oriented points-up to catch luck — appeared in every material from plain gold to diamond-set platinum. Four-leaf clovers in emerald and diamond promised general fortune, each leaf representing faith, hope, love, and luck. Wishbones indicated hope for future happiness. Turquoise was believed to protect the wearer from falls, making it popular with riders and travellers. The number seven appeared frequently in ring design — seven stones in a row, seven-pointed star motifs — while thirteen was studiously avoided or, perversely, embraced by those who defied superstition.
| Symbol | Meaning | Common Form |
|---|---|---|
| Horseshoe | Good fortune (points up to catch luck) | Brooches, stickpins, ring bezels |
| Four-leaf clover | Faith, hope, love, luck | Brooches, pendants |
| Wishbone | Hope, wishes granted | Brooches, stickpins |
| Black cat | Protection from evil | Jet or onyx brooches |
| Elephant (trunk up) | Prosperity, obstacles removed | Charms, brooches |
| Owl | Wisdom, watchfulness | Ring bezels, brooches |
Explore our quirky and unusual rings to see how symbolic motifs survive in antique ring form.
What Did Gemstone Colours Symbolise?
Each gemstone colour carried specific symbolic weight, allowing wearers to communicate through the stones they chose. A ring's colour palette was never purely aesthetic — informed observers read messages in the combination.
| Colour | Stones | Symbolic Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| Red | Ruby, garnet | Passion, love, courage |
| Blue | Sapphire | Constancy, fidelity, heaven |
| Green | Emerald, peridot | Hope, renewal, nature |
| White/colourless | Diamond, pearl | Purity, innocence, tears |
| Purple | Amethyst | Royalty, dignity, devotion |
| Black | Onyx, jet | Mourning, elegance, protection |
| Yellow | Topaz, citrine | Warmth, friendship |
For a comprehensive guide to what each stone traditionally symbolised, see Gemstone Symbolism: What Stones Really Mean. Browse our collection of Edwardian rings to see how these colours appear in surviving pieces.
What Romantic and Sentimental Symbols Were Used?
Hearts were the universal symbol of love, appearing in infinite variations on Edwardian rings and brooches. A triple heart ring — three hearts set side by side — multiplied the declaration. Crowned hearts indicated love's triumph, while hearts pierced by arrows suggested the sweet pain of romantic devotion. The ouroboros — a serpent eating its own tail — symbolised eternal love, a tradition that reached back to Prince Albert's engagement ring for Queen Victoria. For more on the serpent tradition, see Snake Rings.
Clasped Hands and Love Knots
Clasped hands represented friendship, betrothal, or farewell — the same gesture carried different meanings depending on context. The fede ring, with its clasped-hands motif, had been a betrothal symbol since the medieval period and remained in production through the Edwardian era. Love knots in gold — continuous forms with no beginning or end — symbolised bonds that could not be broken. These motifs allowed public display of private relationships, their meanings readable only by those who knew the language.
What Religious and Spiritual Symbols Appeared on Rings?
Crosses appeared on Edwardian rings in forms ranging from simple Latin crosses to Celtic crosses incorporating heritage symbolism. Anchors represented hope — drawn from the biblical description of hope as "the anchor of the soul" — and appealed particularly to Britain's maritime heritage. Angels served as guardians and messengers, depicted as full figures or simply as wings suggesting divine protection.
St Christopher medals gained new significance as Edwardians embraced automobile travel, their protective function updated for a modern age. The Eastern influences of the period introduced the Hand of Fatima for protection against the evil eye and Egyptian ankhs promising eternal life — symbols that demonstrated worldly sophistication while providing spiritual comfort. Browse our animal rings to see how animal symbolism translated into ring form.
What Bird and Animal Motifs Were Most Popular?
Swallows symbolised homecoming and faithful return — a bird that always comes back to the same nest. Doves represented peace, the Holy Spirit, and pure love. Owls indicated wisdom and watchfulness. These birds appeared on stickpins and brooches most commonly, but also on ring bezels where their compact forms suited the smaller canvas. Fabergé elevated the animal motif into an art form with his carved hardstone menagerie for Queen Alexandra — a tradition explored in our guide to Fabergé's Edwardian animals. The Edwardian gentleman's wardrobe featured many of the same animal motifs on stickpins and cuff links, demonstrating how the symbolic language crossed both jewellery types and genders.
Snake rings carried the most powerful animal symbolism: the ouroboros (serpent eating its tail) represented eternity, while a snake's coiling form suggested the cycle of life and death. Insect motifs also appeared: butterflies symbolised transformation and the soul's journey, bees represented industry and hard work, and dragonflies suggested fleeting beauty. These natural symbols allowed expression of sentiments too delicate for words, worn publicly but understood only by those who knew the code. Explore our complete guide to jewellery eras for more on how symbolic traditions evolved across periods.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is an acrostic ring?
An acrostic ring spells a word using the first letter of each gemstone. The most popular was REGARD: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond. The tradition was introduced by the French jeweller Mellerio in 1809 and remained fashionable through the Edwardian period. REGARD rings were commonly given as engagement rings and tokens of affection.
Was all purple, white, and green Edwardian jewellery suffragette?
No. The WSPU adopted purple, white, and green in 1908, but these colours were already fashionable in Edwardian jewellery. Peridot was reportedly King Edward VII's favourite gem, and amethyst was widely used. Beverley Cook, curator at the Museum of London, advises caution in attributing green-and-purple pieces to suffragette allegiance without documented provenance.
What does "Give Women Votes" mean in suffragette jewellery?
The popular belief that the green-white-violet colour scheme stood for "Give Women Votes" is a modern myth. The WSPU's 1908 announcement stated that purple represented royal dignity, white represented purity, and green represented hope. The slogan was "Votes for Women," not "Give Women Votes." An American publication promoted the GWV acrostic in 1910, but it has no British WSPU origin.
What did a horseshoe mean on Edwardian jewellery?
A horseshoe symbolised good fortune. The orientation mattered: points up was believed to catch and hold luck, while points down showered fortune on others. Horseshoes appeared on brooches, stickpins, and ring bezels, often set with diamonds or crafted in plain gold. Some featured seven nail holes, combining two lucky elements.
What did turquoise symbolise in antique jewellery?
Turquoise was believed to protect the wearer from falls — making it especially popular with horse riders — and to bring general good fortune. The stone was associated with luck across multiple cultures and appeared frequently in both Victorian and Edwardian jewellery. Its vibrant blue-green colour also made it aesthetically versatile.
What does an ouroboros (snake eating its tail) mean on a ring?
The ouroboros symbolises eternity and eternal love. The motif dates to ancient Egypt and appeared on rings throughout the Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian periods. Prince Albert's serpent engagement ring for Queen Victoria, set with an emerald, made snake rings the most fashionable engagement ring form of the mid-nineteenth century.
Related Reading
- Regard Rings & Acrostic Jewellery — hidden gemstone messages in ring form
- Edwardian Rings: Platinum, Lace & Light — the broader context of Edwardian ring design
- Gemstone Symbolism: What Stones Really Mean — the meanings behind the stones
- Explore our complete guide to jewellery eras — all era guides from ancient to vintage