The Rise of Colourful Engagement Rings
The diamond engagement ring is not a centuries-old tradition. It is largely the creation of a single advertising campaign launched in 1948. Before that campaign reshaped the market, coloured gemstones — sapphires, rubies, emeralds, garnets — were the stones most associated with romantic jewellery. Today, colourful engagement rings are rising again, not as a trend but as a return to older, more personal traditions.
Why Did Diamonds Become the Default Engagement Stone?
In 1938, De Beers hired the Philadelphia advertising agency N.W. Ayer & Son because diamond sales in America had declined by 50% since 1919, worsened by the Great Depression. In 1947, copywriter Frances Gerety wrote the line "A Diamond is Forever." The campaign debuted in print the following year and has run in every De Beers engagement advertisement since.
The impact was transformative. In 1940, only around 10% of first-time brides in the United States received a diamond engagement ring. By 1990, that figure was 80%. De Beers wholesale diamond sales in the US grew from $23 million in 1939 to $2.1 billion in 1979. Before this campaign, proposing with a diamond was uncommon — coloured gemstones carried the romantic symbolism that diamonds now monopolise.
What Did Engagement Rings Look Like Before Diamonds Dominated?
Georgian and Victorian engagement rings commonly featured coloured gemstones chosen for their symbolic meaning. Sapphires signified loyalty, rubies represented passion, emeralds stood for enduring love, and garnets symbolised devotion. The stones were selected to convey a personal message, not to meet a social convention.
The Victorian era produced regard rings — acrostic rings that spelled words using the first letter of each gemstone. REGARD used Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, and Diamond. DEAREST used Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, and Topaz. These rings turned coloured gemstones into declarations of love, with each stone's meaning amplified by its place in the hidden message. For the full history of this tradition, see our guide to gemstone symbolism.
Which Coloured Gemstones Are Durable Enough for an Engagement Ring?
Durability is the most important practical consideration when choosing a coloured engagement ring. GIA identifies three factors — hardness, toughness, and stability — and no single gemstone scores perfectly on all three. The Mohs hardness scale measures only scratch resistance; it says nothing about whether a stone can survive a knock against a door frame or a sudden temperature change.
| Gemstone | Mohs Hardness | Suitable for Daily Wear? | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sapphire | 9 | Excellent | Second hardest gemstone; ideal for engagement rings |
| Ruby | 9 | Excellent | Same mineral (corundum) as sapphire; equally durable |
| Spinel | 8 | Very good | Often mistaken historically for ruby; tough and stable |
| Emerald | 7.5–8 | With care | Not a tough gem; often oil-treated; vulnerable to chemicals |
| Garnet | 6.5–7.5 | Good | Durable enough for daily wear with a protective setting |
| Amethyst | 7 | Good | May fade from prolonged sunlight exposure |
| Opal | 5.5–6.5 | Not recommended | Can crack in low humidity or heat; reserve for occasional wear |
| Pearl | 2.5–4.5 | Not recommended | Affected by light, heat, chemicals; too soft for daily ring wear |
GIA recommends sapphires and rubies as excellent choices for engagement rings intended for a lifetime of active daily wear. For those drawn to green, GIA specifically suggests tsavorite garnet as a more durable alternative to emerald. For the science behind these ratings, see our guide to gemstone hardness and durability.
What Makes a Sapphire the Most Popular Coloured Engagement Stone?
Sapphires combine exceptional durability (Mohs 9, second only to diamond) with deep cultural significance. They have been associated with loyalty, truth, and fidelity for centuries — qualities directly relevant to an engagement ring.
The most famous sapphire engagement ring in the world belonged to Princess Diana. Created by Garrard, it features a 12-carat oval blue Ceylon sapphire surrounded by 14 diamonds in 18-carat white gold. Diana chose it herself from Garrard's catalogue — stock number 7048 — breaking royal tradition by not commissioning a bespoke ring. Prince William later gave the same ring to Catherine Middleton upon their engagement in October 2010, reinforcing the sapphire's association with British royal romance.
Antique sapphire rings offer depth of colour and character that modern stones rarely match. Hand-cut sapphires in Victorian and Edwardian settings interact with light differently from precision-cut modern stones, producing a warmer, more individual quality. Explore our antique sapphire rings to see this for yourself.
Are Emerald Engagement Rings a Good Choice?
Emeralds are beautiful but require careful consideration. Although they rank 7.5–8 on the Mohs scale, GIA describes emerald as "not a tough gem." Most emeralds contain natural inclusions (known in the trade as the stone's jardin, or garden), and the majority are treated with oil or resin to improve clarity. This treatment makes them vulnerable to ultrasonic cleaning, alcohol-based hand sanitisers, and household solvents.
An emerald engagement ring can work — but the wearer needs to commit to removing it during activities that risk chemical exposure or impact. A protective bezel setting rather than an exposed claw setting reduces the risk of chipping. For those who want a green stone without the fragility, GIA recommends tsavorite garnet as a more practical alternative.
Why Are Colourful Engagement Rings Rising Again?
The shift away from diamond-only engagement rings reflects a change in values rather than fashion. Couples are choosing stones for their personal meaning, their colour, and their individuality — the same reasons that guided Georgian and Victorian buyers before the De Beers campaign changed the market.
Antique coloured gemstone rings offer something modern jewellery cannot: period-appropriate settings that were designed to enhance colour. Victorian star settings, Edwardian scrollwork, Georgian closed-back collets — these techniques create a softer, more romantic appearance than modern precision-cut settings. The stone and setting were conceived together, producing rings with a coherence and warmth that retrospective designs do not achieve.
For those who do prefer a diamond, antique diamonds offer their own distinctive character — see our guide to choosing the perfect diamond ring. For comprehensive guidance on choosing between styles, stones, and eras, see how to choose an antique engagement ring.
Browse our alternative engagement rings to see coloured gemstone rings from every era, or read more of our buyer's guides for practical advice on choosing, sizing, and caring for an antique ring.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why did diamonds become the standard engagement stone?
The diamond engagement ring tradition was largely created by the De Beers "A Diamond is Forever" campaign, written by Frances Gerety in 1947 and launched in 1948. Before the campaign, only around 10% of first-time brides in the US received a diamond ring. By 1990, that figure was 80%. Before this shift, coloured gemstones carried the romantic symbolism now associated with diamonds.
Which coloured gemstones are durable enough for daily wear?
Sapphires and rubies (Mohs 9) are excellent choices — GIA recommends both for engagement rings intended for a lifetime of active wear. Garnets and spinels are also good options. Emeralds require more care due to their brittleness and oil treatment. Opals and pearls are not recommended for daily ring wear — GIA suggests reserving them for earrings or special occasions.
What is a regard ring?
A regard ring is an acrostic ring that spells the word REGARD using the first letter of each gemstone: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond. Popular during the Georgian and Victorian eras, these rings turned coloured gemstones into hidden romantic messages. DEAREST rings followed the same principle: Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Topaz.
Are sapphire engagement rings a good choice?
Sapphires are one of the best choices for a coloured engagement ring. At Mohs 9, they are second only to diamond in hardness and offer excellent toughness and stability. Their association with loyalty and fidelity makes them symbolically appropriate. The most famous sapphire engagement ring — Princess Diana's 12-carat Ceylon sapphire by Garrard — is now worn by Catherine Middleton.
Can I wear an emerald engagement ring every day?
With care, but it requires commitment. GIA describes emerald as "not a tough gem" despite its Mohs hardness of 7.5–8. Most emeralds are treated with oil or resin, making them vulnerable to ultrasonic cleaning, alcohol, and solvents. A protective bezel setting reduces chipping risk. GIA recommends tsavorite garnet as a more durable green alternative for daily wear.
What started the trend for colourful engagement rings?
Colourful engagement rings are not a new trend — they are a return to pre-20th-century traditions. Georgian and Victorian engagement rings routinely featured sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and garnets, chosen for their symbolic meanings. The diamond-only expectation was created by the De Beers campaign in 1948. Today's shift reflects buyers choosing meaning and individuality over convention.
Related Reading
- Sapphires in Antique Rings — the definitive guide to sapphires across the eras
- Regard Rings & Acrostic Jewellery — the Victorian tradition of spelling words with gemstones
- Gemstone Hardness & Durability — the science of which stones survive daily wear
- Read more of our buyer's guides to antique and vintage rings — the Buyer's Guide pillar page