The Edwardian era (1901-1915) is famous for its delicate elegance and technical innovation. If you’ve discovered a vintage piece and want to know whether it dates from this period, look for these seven key features. Mastering these clues will help you shop—and wear—authentic antique and vintage rings and other jewellery with confidence.
1. Platinum Takes Centre Stage
Edwardian jewellers embraced the newly workable metal platinum. Its strength allowed for lace-like settings far too fine for gold alone. If a piece features airy filigree and has a cool white tone that resists tarnish, platinum is your first hint of Edwardian craftsmanship.
However, yellow gold remained in use, especially for sentimental jewellery like lockets and rings intended for daily wear. Some Edwardian pieces even combine both metals, blending platinum’s lightness with the warmth of gold for striking contrast.
2. Filigree and Milgrain Detailing
Lace was the fashion muse of the era. Look for intricate filigree frameworks and milgrain beading along edges. This fine texture—resembling a row of tiny grains—adds a soft sparkle that’s quintessentially Edwardian.
3. Old European-Cut Diamonds & Natural Pearls
Before the modern brilliant cut took over, jewellers favoured old European-cut diamonds with high crowns and small tables. Natural seed pearls were another Edwardian favourite, often used to outline garland motifs or accent diamond centres.
4. Signature Motifs: Bows, Garlands, and Laurels
Floral garlands, ribbon bows, and laurel wreaths dominated design, inspired by French Belle Époque style. Spot these motifs in ring galleries, pendant frames, or brooch outlines to narrow your dating window.
5. Airy, Pierced Under-Galleries
Turn the piece over: Edwardian rings often have elegantly pierced under-galleries that reduce metal weight and let in more light. The workmanship should feel crisp and refined, not bulky.
6. Hallmarks and Date Letters
British pieces may carry a platinum stamp (“PT” or “PLAT”) or an “18CT & PT” dual mark. Check for assay office symbols and date letters between 1901 and 1915. Use a reliable hallmark finder tool to confirm authenticity.
7. Lightweight Elegance
Edwardian jewels appear sizeable yet feel surprisingly light due to platinum’s strength and the pierced, openwork design. If a large diamond cluster weighs less than you expect, that airy construction is likely Edwardian.
Ready to Explore Genuine Edwardian Pieces?
Our curated selection of antique and vintage rings features authentic Edwardian filigree and old European-cut diamonds. Discover a piece that captures the grace of 1901-1915 and adds timeless elegance to your collection.