The Victorian era (1837–1901) produced some of the most romantic and varied jewellery in history. Spanning over six decades and the reign of Queen Victoria, this period embraced changing fashions, symbolism, and craftsmanship. If you’ve inherited a ring or are curious about whether your jewellery is Victorian, here’s how to recognise the tell-tale features.
How to Recognise Victorian Jewellery by Era
The Victorian period is often divided into three phases:
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Early Victorian (Romantic, 1837–1860): Inspired by nature, featuring flowers, leaves, snakes, and birds. Gemstones like turquoise, garnet, and emerald were popular.
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Mid-Victorian (Grand, 1860–1885): Darker, more somber designs, often using black enamel, jet, or onyx in mourning jewellery. Symbolism, such as hearts and lockets, was widespread.
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Late Victorian (Aesthetic, 1885–1901): Lighter, more playful designs returned, with diamonds and brightly coloured gemstones in elegant cluster and star motifs.
Which Gemstones Were Popular in Victorian Rings?
Victorian rings often feature:
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Garnets and turquoise in Early Victorian designs.
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Diamonds, pearls, and enamel in sentimental and mourning jewellery.
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Sapphires, rubies, and emeralds set in gold during the Late Victorian era.
Foiled-back gemstones are also a strong sign of earlier Victorian craftsmanship.
What Metals Were Used in Victorian Rings?
High-carat gold (often 18ct or 22ct) was standard in Victorian jewellery. Silver was sometimes used in combination with gold for gemstone settings. Platinum was not yet in common use, so if your ring features platinum, it is unlikely to be Victorian.
How to Spot Victorian Design Details
Victorian rings are rich with symbolism and design flourishes:
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Snake motifs (symbolising eternal love, especially after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a serpent engagement ring).
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Cluster settings of diamonds or coloured stones.
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Engraved shoulders and decorative galleries.
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Mourning rings with black enamel or compartments for hair.
Checking Hallmarks on Victorian Jewellery
Hallmarks are invaluable when dating rings. British hallmarking will often include the maker’s mark, fineness mark, and assay office symbol (such as London’s leopard’s head or Birmingham’s anchor). Using a hallmark finder tool can help confirm authenticity and narrow down the date.
Why Collectors Love Victorian Rings
Victorian rings are admired for their variety, romance, and history. Whether it’s the sentiment of a mourning ring or the sparkle of a diamond cluster, each piece carries with it the style and symbolism of an era defined by love, innovation, and tradition.
If you’re looking for authentic examples, explore our collection of Victorian rings and antique and vintage rings to discover timeless designs.