The Georgian era (1714–1837) is one of the most enchanting periods in jewellery history. Pieces from this time are rare, highly sought after, and valued for their artistry and sentimental symbolism. But with many antique styles being reproduced in later periods, how can you tell if your jewellery is truly Georgian? Here’s a guide to spotting the hallmarks of genuine Georgian craftsmanship.
How to Identify Georgian Jewellery by Craftsmanship
Georgian jewellery was entirely handmade, long before the industrialisation of jewellery-making. Look for tiny imperfections in symmetry or engraving—these are signs of handcrafting. Georgian settings often used closed backs, sometimes with coloured foil placed beneath gemstones to enhance their sparkle under candlelight.
What Metals Were Used in Georgian Jewellery?
Gold was the metal of choice, often high-carat (18ct or more). Silver was also common, particularly in gemstone settings, sometimes over a gold base. Platinum was not yet used in jewellery-making during this period.
How to Recognise Georgian Gemstone Cuts
Gemstones from the Georgian era often feature rose cuts or table cuts, with a soft, romantic glow rather than modern brilliance. Old mine cuts may also appear in late-Georgian pieces. If the stones appear unusually sparkly and symmetrical, they may be later replacements.
Spotting Georgian Motifs and Styles
Common themes include bows, floral patterns, snakes, crescents, and hearts. Mourning jewellery, often with black enamel or woven hair, was especially popular. Sentimental pieces might feature clasped hands, padlocks, or miniature portraiture.
How to Check Hallmarks and Maker’s Marks
British hallmarking began long before the Georgian period, so genuine pieces may have clear assay marks for gold or silver. However, some Georgian jewellery lacks hallmarks entirely due to wear, resizing, or being privately commissioned. Using a hallmark identification tool can help determine authenticity.
Signs of Age and Wear
Expect some wear—slight dents, softened engraving, and signs of resizing are normal. However, heavy wear or poorly repaired sections may affect value. Authentic Georgian rings often show faint solder lines or handmade shanks.
Why It Matters
Owning a genuine Georgian ring is like holding a small piece of history. They embody a unique blend of artistry and sentiment rarely found in modern designs. If you think you have a Georgian piece—or want to add one to your collection—browse our Georgian rings for inspiration.