When you’re choosing an antique or vintage ring, understanding gemstone hardness is essential for predicting how well the piece will stand up to daily wear. The most widely used measure of hardness is the Mohs scale—a simple, ordinal ranking from 1 (talc) to 10 (diamond) that indicates a mineral’s resistance to scratching. In this guide, we explain the Mohs scale, place popular gemstones within it, and offer practical tips on caring for softer stones in antique jewellery.
1. What Is the Mohs Scale?
Developed by German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs in 1812, the scale ranks minerals by their ability to scratch those below them. For example, quartz (hardness 7) can scratch feldspar (6) but not topaz (8). While the Mohs scale doesn’t measure absolute hardness, it provides an easy way to compare durability among gemstones.
2. Where Popular Gemstones Sit on the Scale
- Diamond – 10: The hardest natural material; ideal for engagement rings.
- Sapphire & Ruby – 9: Durable choices for everyday antique rings.
- Topaz & Spinel – 8: Tough but should be protected from sharp blows.
- Quartz Family (Amethyst, Citrine) – 7: Fairly resistant to scratches; avoid harsh knocks.
- Moonstone & Opal – 5.5–6.5: Softer and prone to surface wear; best for occasional wear.
- Pearl – 2.5–4: Very soft organic gem; handle with great care and avoid abrasives.
3. Durability Considerations for Antique Rings
Many antique rings feature softer gems like opal or pearl set in protective bezels or surrounded by harder stones. If you plan to wear such a ring regularly, consider:
- Setting Style: Bezel settings offer more protection than prongs.
- Occasional Wear: Reserve softer stones for special occasions.
- Professional Cleaning: Have softer gems cleaned by a jeweller to avoid damage.
4. Caring for Softer Gemstones
Always remove antique rings with pearls or opals before household chores or exercise. Store them separately in a soft pouch to prevent scratches from more intricate jewellery.
5. Choosing the Right Gemstone for Your Lifestyle
If you love the idea of wearing a ring every day, diamonds, sapphires, and rubies are historically proven options. For collectors who want unique colour play from opals or the glow of pearls, wearing them occasionally—and caring for them properly—will preserve their beauty.
Ready to find a stone that suits your style and daily routine? Browse our curated antique and vintage rings to discover pieces ranging from hardy diamond solitaires to heirloom opal treasures.