Hallmarks are the key to unlocking the story behind antique and vintage jewellery. Each mark tells us where a piece was tested and verified for its precious metal content, offering insight into its origin and history. For centuries, the UK has operated official assay offices, each with its own distinctive symbol. Knowing these marks can help you date and authenticate your jewellery.
What is an Assay Office?
An assay office is an official institution where precious metals are tested (assayed) to confirm their purity. Once verified, items are stamped with a hallmark that includes symbols for metal type, fineness, the assay office, and often the year. For collectors of antique and vintage rings, these marks are invaluable clues to a jewel’s past.
How Many UK Assay Offices Are There?
Today, only four remain active: London, Birmingham, Sheffield, and Edinburgh. However, historically, there were several others—each leaving behind unique marks that continue to appear on antique jewellery.
London Assay Office – The Leopard’s Head
The leopard’s head has represented London since the 14th century. As the oldest assay office, London hallmarks are among the most commonly seen on Georgian, Victorian, and later jewellery.
Birmingham Assay Office – The Anchor
Founded in 1773, Birmingham adopted the anchor as its symbol. It became one of the busiest assay offices of the 19th century, and you’ll often find its marks on Victorian and Edwardian rings.
Sheffield Assay Office – The Rose
Sheffield began hallmarking in 1773 with the crown but later adopted the Yorkshire rose in 1975. Antique rings from Sheffield prior to that year will carry a crown rather than a rose.
Chester Assay Office – The Three Wheat Sheaves
Operating until 1962, Chester’s symbol was the three wheat sheaves with a sword. It is highly prized by collectors, as Chester marks are now a thing of the past.
Edinburgh Assay Office – The Castle
The castle represents Edinburgh, Scotland’s main assay office. It has operated since the 15th century, and pieces with the castle mark are especially valued in Scottish jewellery traditions.
Glasgow Assay Office – The Tree
Glasgow used a tree, fish, and bell as its symbols, reflecting the city’s coat of arms. This office closed in 1964, making its marks less commonly seen today.
York Assay Office – The Five Lions Passant
York’s mark, thefive lions passant, is one of the rarest. The office ceased operations in 1858, so jewellery with this hallmark is particularly scarce.
Why Hallmarks Matter for Collectors
For anyone buying antique and vintage rings, hallmarks provide vital context. They reveal not just where a piece was made but also help determine its authenticity, age, and sometimes even its maker. Using our hallmark finder tool can make identification easier and ensure your jewellery’s story is preserved.